Sunday, December 14, 2008

Put the bite back into restaurant reviews.

AA Gill reviews Richard Corrigan’s latest London eaterie, Corrigan’s Mayfair, in today’s Sunday Times.

The review makes it clear that Gill is a genuine fan of Corrigan and he’s highly enthused by this latest culinary venture. He awards it 4 (out of 5) stars, a high mark from Mr Gill who’s not averse to awarding scores of one or two.

However, he did hit one bum note on the menu which is described hilariously, I think, as follows:

“Corrigan has occasional moments where the enthusiasm gets the better of him, and there was a fashion disaster. This was the linguine cooked in red wine, pecorino and bone marrow. It looked, smelt and tasted not a little like, not a bit like, not almost like, but precisely and exactly like drunk’s puke. I didn’t finish it. I didn’t want to meet it twice.”

Doesn’t it just make you pine for the return of Helen Lucy Burke’s razor sharp pen & tongue?

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